Refitting

1. Undo the screws (1a) and the nut (1b) securing the water pump to the engine block.

2. Remove the sealant using the tool (2a) and remove the water pump (2b).

- Clean thoroughly between the engine block and water pump mating surfaces.

3. Remove the minimum engine oil pressure switch.

1. Fit the tool (1a) and undo the screw (1b) securing the crankshaft gear.

- Remove the template fitted previously.

2. Remove the crankshaft gear.

3. Undo the screw (3a) and remove the rpm sensor (3b).

1. Undo the screws (1a) and remove the engine block front cover (1b) with built-in oil pump, complete with gasket (1c) and intake duct (1d).

1. Undo the screws (1a) and remove the crankshaft rear cover (1b) with built-in oil seal ring.

- Rotate the engine block through 180°.

1. Fit the tool for rotating the crankshaft.

1. Undo the screws (1a) and remove the connecting rod caps (1b).

2. Remove the lower connecting rod half-bearings.

3. Remove the connecting rod - piston assemblies.

4. Remove the upper connecting rod half-bearings.

The arrow on the piston crown facing the timing side indicates the fitting direction. The matching of the connecting rod-cap is the "BREAKING" type therefore the position is compulsory and the number corresponding to the position of the cylinder must be present.

- Remove the flange for rotating the crankshaft fitted previously.

1. Using a dial gauge, check that the crankshaft end float is within specified limits.

- Remove the dial gauge.

If the value for the crankshaft end float does not correspond to the prescribed figures, when refitting, regrind the engine block seat and use the central main bearing half incorporating appropriately oversized crankshaft thrust half-washers.

1. Undo the screws (1a) and remove the lower crankcase (1b), complete with lower half-bearings, from the engine block.

1. Remove the lower main half bearings from the engine block.

2. Remove the crankshaft.

3. Remove the upper main half-bearings.

1. Undo the screw and remove the knock sensor.

- Remove the lower crankcase locating bushes with the engine block.

- Raise the engine block using a hydraulic lift and place it on a suitable workbench.

    Op. 1028H60 SET OF PISTONS, GUDGEON PINS AND RINGS - REPLACE PISTONS AND CONNECTING RODS AT THE BENCH - INCLUDES ALIGNMENT AND BALANCING

1. Remove the oil jets (1a) using the tool (1b).

Insert the striker guide hole on the nozzle surface to prevent the striker from slipping and damaging the cylinder liner during the removal operation.

Use new oil jets when refitting.

Removing

- Wash and check the appearance of all components removed.

- Place the engine block on the overhaul stand.

- Fit the water/oil sealing plugs in the engine block using suitable fitting tools and sealant.

- Fit the locating bushes for the engine block.

1. Use the tool (1a) and a plastic mallet to fit the new oil jets (1b).

1. Using a calibrated metal rule (1a) and a feeler gauge (1b), check the flatness of the cylinder head - engine block support surface.

2. If the measurement does not correspond to the prescribed values, regrind the cylinder head support surface.

- Measure the diameter of the cylinder liners and check that they correspond to the prescribed figures.

- Check that the ovality of the cylinder liners is within the prescribed limits.

- Check that the taper of the cylinder liners is within the prescribed limits.

- If the cylinder bore, taper or ovality measurements are not within the prescribed limits, ream the cylinder bores following the prescribed oversizes.

In the case of reaming, all the liners must have the same oversize.

- Check that the diameter of the main journals is within the prescribed limits.

- If the diameter of the main journals does not fall within the prescribed values, they should be reground to the prescribed undersize.

Because the crankshaft has undergone nitriding, this treatment should be repeated and the size re-checked if it is ground.

- Check that the diameter of the crankpins is within the prescribed limits.

- If the diameter of the crankpins is not correct, they should be reground to the prescribed undersize.

Because the crankshaft has undergone nitriding, this treatment should be repeated and the size re-checked if it is ground.

- Check the main bearings, noting that the half-bearings should not be adapted. Replace them if scoring or signs of binding are found.

- Fit the main bearing halves in their seats on the upper crankcase, aligning the lubrication ports and ensuring scrupulous cleanliness. The centre main bearing half incorporates the thrust half-washers because it performs a load-bearing function and also acts as a thrust bearing.

- If the crankshaft has been ground, fit new oversize half-bearings to restore the initial tolerance conditions.

1. Fit the crankshaft in the special housing in the engine block with the upper half-bearings.

2. Fit the calibrated wire (Plastigage) for measuring the main journal clearance.

1. Fit the main half-bearings in the lower crankcase.

2. Fit the lower crankcase on the engine block, checking that the codes stamped on both parts of the engine block correspond, because the engine block components are not interchangeable.

- The size of the main half-bearings is given.

- Tighten the screws securing the lower crankcase to the engine block to the prescribed torque.

1. Remove the lower crankcase and check the main journal clearance. Use an appropriate measuring device to measure the width of the calibrated wire.

Check one main journal at a time, without rotating the crankshaft.

- After checking all the main journals, apply sealant to the contact surfaces between the lower crankcase and upper crankcase. Then fit the lower crankcase permanently by tightening the screws to torque in the order described previously.

Apply a 2-mm thick continuous sealant strip to the lower crankcase surface.

- Check that the outer diameter of the pistons corresponds to the prescribed figures; if not, replace the pistons complete with sealing rings and piston pins.

Measure perpendicular to the gudgeon pin axis, 9 mm from the lower edge of the skirt.

- Position the pistons in the cylinder liners and use a feeler gauge to measure the specified clearance.

- Check that the inner bore of the piston pin housings is within the prescribed limits; if not, replace the pistons.

- Check that the outer diameter of the piston pins is within the prescribed limits; if not, replace the worn parts.

- Use a micrometer gauge to measure the thickness of the piston sealing rings.

1. Fit the sealing rings (1a) in the cylinder liners/bores and use a feeler gauge (1b) to check the gap between the seal ends is within specified limits. Otherwise replace the sealing rings.

- Check that the diameters of the big ends and the small ends are within the prescribed values.

The small end bush cannot be separated from the actual connecting rod. The bush is therefore handled by the Parts Dept. together with the connecting rod.

    Op. 1028H60 SET OF PISTONS, GUDGEON PINS AND RINGS - REPLACE PISTONS AND CONNECTING RODS AT THE BENCH - INCLUDES ALIGNMENT AND BALANCING

The matching of the connecting rod-cap is "BREAKING" type therefore the position is compulsory and the number corresponding to the position of the cylinder must be present.

Letters identifying the cylinder liner classes are shown on the engine block.

1. Fit the connecting rod/piston assemblies (1a) with half-bearings, using tool (1b) to compress retaining rings and then fit the piston into the liner.

- Rotate the engine on the overhaul stand.

1. Apply the calibrated wire (Plastigage) for measuring the crankpin clearance.

- The size of the connecting rod half-bearings is given.

- Refit the connecting rod caps complete with half-bearings and secure them by tightening the screws to the prescribed torque.

The connecting rod caps are fracture type. If replaced, they are supplied pre-fractured by the manufacturer. Check that the parts are free of burrs, blisters, scratches or any other surface defect. Before installation, parts must be thoroughly washed, cleaned and dried. Fit the connecting rod caps so that the number stamped on each cap faces towards the same side as the number stamped on the big end.

Each connecting rod must be paired with its cap, respecting the numerical references stamped on the parts. Connecting rods and connecting rod caps are not interchangeable.

1. Remove the connecting rod caps and check the crankpin clearance. Use an appropriate gauge to measure the width of the calibrated wire.

Check one crankpin at a time, without rotating the crankshaft.

- If the value measured is not within the prescribed figures, replace the connecting rod bearings.

- Refit the connecting rod caps complete with half-bearings and secure them by tightening the screws to the torque given previously.

- Rotate the engine on the overhaul stand.

- Position a new oil pump gasket.

- Fit the front engine block cover with built-in oil pump complete with intake chamber and secure by tightening the screws to the prescribed torque.

- Place the minimum engine oil pressure switch in position and tighten it to the prescribed torque.

- Fit the oil seal on the crankshaft front cover using the tool.

- Remove the flange for rotating the crankshaft fitted previously.

- Place a new engine block rear cover with integrated oil seal ring in position and secure it by tightening the screws to the prescribed torque.

- Place the crankshaft gear in its housing.

1. Because the timing is adjusted with the four pistons in line, i.e. half-way along their effective strokes, it is essential to position the crankshaft timed with the camshafts. They can be approximately positioned by turning the crankshaft gear (1a) until the locating dowel (1b) is positioned opposite to the rpm sensor seat (1c) with the first cylinder piston in descending phase, i.e. intake.

1. Position the counter-torque tool.

2. Secure the crankshaft gear (2a) by tightening the screw (2b) to the prescribed torque.

3. Position the rpm sensor (3a) in its housing and secure it by tightening the screw (3b) to the prescribed torque.

- Apply silicone sealant to the splining on the flange securing the water pump to the engine block.

- Position the water pump in its housing and secure it, tightening the screws and the nut to the prescribed torque.

- Rotate the engine through 180° on the overhaul stand.

- Clean the lower crankcase and oil sump contact surfaces, removing the silicone sealant residues.

- Apply the sealant without a break to the entire perimeter of the oil sump.

- Position the oil sump in its housing and secure it, tightening the screws and the nuts to the prescribed torque.

When positioning the oil sump, avoid significant sideways movements that could remove the sealant.

- Rotate the engine through 180° on the overhaul stand.

- Fit the locating bushes for the engine block.

- Fit a new cylinder head gasket on the engine block.

- Position the cylinder head on the engine block, aligning the locating dowels.

1. Tighten the screws securing the cylinder head to the prescribed torque.

Follow the order shown in the diagram for each tightening sequence.

- Fit the locating bushes and position the camshaft housing seal on the cylinder head support plane.

- Position the tappet retaining tools beneath the camshaft housing, then place the camshaft housing on the cylinder head and withdraw the tools.

- Use the tool to tighten the camshaft housing screws to the prescribed torque.

- Refit the plugs complete with new O-rings and tighten them to the prescribed torque.

- Place the camshaft driven pulley in its housing without tightening the screw.

- Fit the camshaft driven pulley locking tool.

- Tighten the camshaft driven pulley screw to the prescribed torque.

- Tighten the retaining screws for the camshaft idler gears to the prescribed torque.

- Loosen the screw securing the camshaft driven pulley and remove the locking tool.

1. After fitting the tool (1a), proceed with fitting the timing drive belt (1b), fitting it at first on the crankshaft gear, on the water pump pulley, on the camshaft driven pulley and lastly on the mobile tensioner.

Ensure that this operation is performed with the camshaft driven pulley slack.

- Camshaft timing was adjusted previously by applying special tools.

1. Tension the timing belt by turning it counterclockwise with the tool (1a) and the moving tensioner (1b) and then secure it when the reference fork (1c) touches the striker (1d).

- Fit the camshaft driven pulley locking tool.

- Tighten the camshaft driven pulley screw to the prescribed torque.

- Remove the tools previously fitted for timing and make the crankshaft turn for two revolutions.

1. Loosen the moving tensioner nut and adjust the front fork using the tool (1a) until it is aligned with the rear fork (1b).

2. Tighten the nut securing the moving tensioner to the prescribed torque.

- Turn the crankshaft through two revolutions in its normal rotation direction, then reposition the tools used to adjust timing and check the engine is timed.

- Remove the tools used for timing the engine.

- Place the side plugs in their seats in the camshaft housing and tighten them to the prescribed torque.

- Place the flywheel side camshaft seal rear cover in its housing and secure it using the nuts.

- Place the water pump inlet pipe, complete with a new gasket, in position and secure it by tightening the screws to the engine block and to the cylinder head to the prescribed torque.

- Fit the ignition coils and tighten them to the prescribed torque.

- Position the timing sensor in its housing and secure it using the screw.

- Place the timing side engine rigid support in position and secure it by tightening the screws to the prescribed torque.

- Fit the upper and lower timing belt covers and secure them using the screws.

- Position the crankshaft pulley in its housing and secure it by tightening the screws to the prescribed torque.

- Place the oil filter mounting and engine oil heat exchanger in position and tighten the connector, crankshaft oil seal front cover side, to the prescribed torque.

- Tighten the screw securing the engine oil heat exchanger and oil filter mounting assembly, engine block side, to the prescribed torque.

- Place the exhaust manifold-turbocharger assembly, complete with new gasket, back in its housing and secure it by tightening the new nuts to the prescribed torque.

- Place the exhaust manifold heat shield in its housing and tighten the nuts to the prescribed torque.

- Place the turbocharger coolant return pipe, complete with new gaskets, in position and tighten the connectors.

The connectors should be tightened keeping the pipe still. Any movement of the pipe of more than 3° will adversely affect the seal of the connectors.

- Place the turbocharger lubrication oil supply pipe, complete with new gasket, back in its housing and tighten the connectors to the prescribed torque.

The connectors should be tightened keeping the pipe still. Any movement of the pipe of more than 3° will adversely affect the seal of the connectors.

- Tighten the screw securing the turbocharger lubrication oil supply pipe intermediate mounting bracket.

- Place the engine oil heat exchanger coolant return pipe, complete with new gaskets, in position and tighten the connectors.

The connectors should be tightened keeping the pipe still. Any movement of the pipe of more than 3° will adversely affect the seal of the connectors.

- Place the engine oil heat exchanger coolant delivery pipe, complete with new gaskets, in position and tighten the connectors to the prescribed torque.

The connectors should be tightened keeping the pipe still. Any movement of the pipe of more than 3° will adversely affect the seal of the connectors.

- Tighten the screws securing the coolant delivery pipe to the engine oil heat exchanger, engine block side and heat exchanger side.

- Place the turbocharger lubrication oil return pipe, complete with new gaskets, back in its housing and tighten the screws to the prescribed torque.

Tighten the "slotted screw" first when connecting the pipe to the turbocharger.

The connectors should be tightened keeping the pipe still. Any movement of the pipe of more than 3° will adversely affect the seal of the connectors.

- Tighten the intermediate connector securing the turbocharger lubrication oil return pipe to the engine block, engine oil heat exchanger side, to the prescribed torque.

The connector should be tightened keeping the pipe still. Any movement of the pipe of more than 3° will adversely affect the seal of the connector.

- Place the water-engine oil heat exchanger heat shield in its housing and tighten the screws to the prescribed torque.

- Place the engine oil filter heat shield in its housing and tighten the screws to the prescribed torque.

- Refit the bracket complete with pressurized air by-pass solenoid and tighten the fastenings.

- Refit the oil vapour separator and tighten the screws.

- Refit the air chamber in its seat and tighten the new screws to the prescribed torque.

- Connect the oil vapour supply pipe to the air chamber and tighten the band.

- Place the air chamber mounting bracket in position and tighten the screws.

- Place the engine oil dipstick pipe back in its housing and secure it with the screw.

- Place the intermediate shaft bearing support in position and secure it by tightening the screws to the prescribed torque.

- Fit the alternator and air conditioning compressor mounting in position and tighten the fastenings to the prescribed torque.

- Place the alternator in position and tighten the relevant screws.

- Place the air conditioning compressor in position and tighten the screws.

- Fit the auxiliary drive belt, adjust the moving tensioner and then remove the locking pin.

- Place the engine wiring back in position and tighten the screw securing the ignition coil wiring duct.

- Connect the electrical connections for the ignition coils.

- Secure the electrical connection for the timing sensor.

- Connect the earth lead and tighten the screw.

- Connect the electrical connection for the engine coolant temperature sensor.

- Connect the electrical connection for the pressurized air by-pass solenoid valve.

- Connect the electrical connection for the throttle body.

- Connect the wiring duct to the air chamber using the retaining clips.

- Connect the electrical connection for the fuel vapour solenoid valve.

- Connect the electrical connection for the knock sensor.

- Connect the injector wiring junction.

- Connect the electrical connection for the air conditioning compressor.

- Connect the alternator earth lead and tighten the nut.

- Place the timing belt inner guard in its housing and secure it using the screws.

- Connect the earth lead to the auxiliary support and tighten the screw.

- Connect the electrical connection for the air temperature and pressure sensor.

- Connect the electrical connection for the exhaust gas temperature sensor.

- Connect the electrical connection for the minimum engine oil pressure switch.

- Connect the electrical connection for the engine rpm sensor.